Adventures and encounters along the world’s largest waterfall
In this issue, our journey in search of water leads us to the river Zambezi in southern Africa. Covering a distance of about 2,500 kilometres, it is not only Africa’s fourth-longest river but also constitutes a vital line for humans and animals on its way across the continent. At times meandering through lush green areas, it is carving deep canyons out of basalt rocks elsewhere and finally taking up speed before turning into a thunderous waterfall.
The Victoria Falls are without a doubt the most majestic as well as the most renowned among the Zambezi’s numerous falls and cataracts, with the water thundering into a gorge along a 1,708-metre stretch of border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Towards the end of the rainy season in April, when the river is full to its brim, up to 625 million litres of water will disgorge into the river bed 108 meters below - per minute! These almost inconceivable amounts result in a dense spray that is visible from kilometres away. While Victoria Falls has been named in honour of Queen Victoria by Scottish missionary David Livingstone, the original name has been derived from said mist: Mosi-oa-Tunya, “the smoke that thunders”.
Visitors can get up close to the thundering smoke for a fee of USD 30 on the Zimbabwean and USD 20 on the Zambian side. Anyone not wanting to get soaked to the bone should make sure to enter the park with a poncho, which is available for purchase or rent at the entrance.
Adventure playground for tourists from around the world
While Mosi-oa-Tunya has a poetic ring to its name, it really is a first-class adventure playground. The falls have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1989, and have since become a popular destination for tourists from all over the world. Today, the two towns of Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) and Livingstone (Zambia) on either side of the mighty river are synonymous with adventure and adrenaline.
While they are divided by the river, the two countries are connected by a bridge, and tourists can walk across the border from either side. If you don’t want to pay the fee for a one-day-visa (USD 30 for Zimbabwe and USD 20 for Zambia), you may walk to the middle of the bridge for free and enjoy the magnificent views of the falls on the one and the deep gorge through which the Zambezi continues its journey towards Mozambique and the Indian Ocean, on the other side.
The middle of the bridge not only offers great views but new perspectives too: Anyone brave enough can take a close-up look of the thundering waters while hanging upside-down after having taken the 111 m bungee jump or, alternatively, opt for the so-called rope swing. The latter is supposed to be less scary as it requires people to leap off the edge of the cliff - feet rather than head first - while further down, rafts are braving the river’s rapids. It is obvious: “Adventure sells” - a fact that has not only boosted the tourism industry on both sides of the Falls but also kept it alive throughout political turmoil, economic crises and a pandemic.
While the town of Victoria Falls used to be ahead of Livingstone in terms of visitor numbers (owed to the fact that it is closer to the falls), things have changed due to political and economic unrest in Zimbabwe. With the Corona-pandemic behind us, numbers are almost on par in both countries. And while they are far below pre-pandemic levels, local tourism experts are upbeat, not least thanks to an influx of US-American tourists who come here to discover a piece of Africa that is relatively easy to reach as both towns have their own airports that are serviced by international airlines.
At one with nature
While adventure and adrenaline kicks may be the main reason for many tourists to make the journey, the area has so much more to offer. The falls thundering into the gorge below is a spectacle in itself, and visitors looking for something truly special cannot only bungee jump or raft down the Zambezi but also view the meandering river from the air. However, there are other options that may be more leisurely, yet still memorable.
There are different river trips available in both Zimbabwe and Zambia, including canoe safaris, romantic full-moon cruises or “booze cruises”, the latter probably being the most popular option. The cruises leave in the late afternoon, just in time to catch the golden hour upriver from the falls, where the Zambezi is calm and gentle, making it hard to believe that it will turn into such a mighty force only a few kilometres away. The water seems as smooth as glass and is only disturbed by the pleasure boats’ bow waves and some hippos that are taking a bath among the reeds. It is not uncommon to view some elephants, and with many animals seemingly waiting to pose for the boats’ passengers they afford the latter with a feeling of being at one with nature. Such animal encounters turn any type of boat trip into something truly special. But, a word of warning: No matter how hot it may be and how inviting the river may seem, it is not safe for swimming as it is home to crocodiles that are neither shy nor slow.
As long as certain basic rules are followed, however, there is no need to worry and encounters in the wild can generally be considered non-perilous. During the dry months, from May to November, when the animals come to the river to drink, there is a particularly large variety of species, and it is not unheard of for herds of elephants to roam through inhabited areas, delighting tourists as they leisurely strut along or across the roads.
Hippos, crocodiles and the “big five”
Anyone wanting to get even closer to nature and encounter more animals in the wild can book a safari from either Victoria Falls or Livingstone. A number of national parks within easy reach of these two towns offer accommodations that range from luxurious five-star lodges replete with modern comforts to rustic tents, thus making sure there is an option for every taste and every budget. No matter whether five stars or less, a safari is always a special experience; after all, animals won’t differentiate between high-end lodgings and campsites, and show up where- and whenever they deem it appropriate. If you are lucky, you will get to see all of the “big five”, namely lion, rhino, elephant, leopard and buffalo, in addition to bucks, gazelles, giraffes, zebras and warthogs.
And as if that was not enough, an incredible night sky will round off the extraordinary experience of being in the bush, making even the flimsiest tent and sleeping bag feel like five stars deluxe.
A visit of the falls makes it relatively easy to adapt to the local pace of life and to go with the flow. Life here seems to keep up with the rhythm of the river - slow and serene, yet lively and vibrant, and, above all, colourful. Anyone willing and able to immerse themselves will be rewarded with unique moments and encounters, and take home memories to last a lifetime.
