Apparently there are people out there that don’t like winter. So it’s good news that we seem to be seeing the light at the end of the Corona-induced tunnel and that those wanting warm weather and sun have a variety of options to choose from, should they wish to escape the cold for a while. Most classic destinations are open for tourists again with (mostly) only minor restrictions, and the numbers of flights are almost on par with pre-Corona levels. Those looking for some time out in the sun, by the sea and with plenty of dolce far niente will most likely be considering destinations like the Seychelles, the Maldives or one of the islands along Thailand’s coast. However, those wanting to add some adventure to the mix might want to consider South Africa with its variety of cultures, variety of landscapes and, above all, variety of flora and fauna.
Small in size, huge in biodiversity
If you are considering a safari in Africa’s southernmost country, the first area coming to mind will likely be the Kruger National Park. At approximately 19,500 square kilometres and stretching all the way across the border to Mozambique, the transnational park is not only the country’s largest but also its most renowned destination for animal lovers. Around one million visitors come here annually in search of the big five - namely elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard, and rhino - as well as other African mammals, giving other, mostly privately owned reserves, a miss. But even though the majority of those private game reserves may be lacking in size, they make up for it in terms of biodiversity. What may be considered as some kind of spatial minimalism is compensated for in lower numbers of visitors and an increased likelihood of encountering wild animals, especially if going on tour with an experienced guide.
Over the past decades, I have been on a number of safaris in different African countries, as part of a guided or on a self-drive tour, on foot or by canoe, often spending the nights in tents, but sometimes also in the comfort of a luxurious lodge - and irrespective of which kind of experience I chose, every single one of them was extraordinary. It seems that being in the bush affords a closer proximity to nature than can be experienced elsewhere; on top of that, encountering Africa’s majestic animals never fails to elicit goosebumps. And while there is something magical about camping out in the bush and relying on your own wits, an organised tour comes with the benefits of experienced and skilled experts who will make sure you are going to have the adventure of a lifetime and take home lasting memories.
At one with nature
That’s exactly what happened on my most recent safari: It afforded me with memories to last a lifetime. And while it’s only been a few weeks since I returned from the bush, I am certain that some of the encounters will stay with me forever, encounters that were only possible thanks to the expertise of our guides, a team made up of a game ranger and a tracker. What he lacked in age, guide Kyran Dick made up for in knowledge paired with infectious enthusiasm, while tracker Zeblon Mtshali used his competence and many years of experience to find the right tracks and thus fulfil our whims and wishes. If we asked for a giraffe, we got a giraffe, if we asked to see a wild cat, we were presented with one or more lions.
It almost seemed as if the three-day safari - with two three-hour game drives per day - was expertly orchestrated, following a script that ended with a real highlight on our last drive, when a herd of about 30 elephants crossed our path. They are gigantic yet soft-footed and almost inaudible, so it comes as no surprise that those pachyderms are also known as gentle giants. As soon as they had passed us and disappeared in the bush, it felt as if they were swallowed by the ground. It seemed as though they were but a figment of our imagination. If the herd had crossed just a few minutes later, we would never have even guessed them to be there … but that being said, I am pretty certain Zeblon would have been able to tell us a tale based on the tracks in the sand.
Talking about elephants: With a bit of luck one might encounter individual ones in close vicinity to the lodge, either at the water hole right outside the restaurant or using one of the pools on the property as a watering hole. You have read that right: Since the lodge is not fenced, the animals can come quite close to the generous rooms, all of which come with their own private plunge pool, outdoor shower and viewing deck. The lodgings almost seem embedded in the landscape, thus affording guests a feeling of being at one with nature.
In between game drives, you can participate in a guided “bush walk” and experience the flora and fauna, rich in species, from a completely new perspective. Alternatively, you can discover the “big five’s” smaller brothers, the so-called “little five”, made up of small mammals, birds and insects. There are walks tailored to kids, who, at Thanda, are only allowed on game drives from age six and older. Other options specific to Thanda are tours guided by an ornithologist or by a photographer specialised in nature photography. Over the past ten years, Christian Sperka, who hails from Switzerland, has accompanied more than 1,800 guests to teach them the basics of wildlife photography. He says that many of them keep returning especially to take photos and hone their skills.
Conservation as a self-prescribed mission
Located in the north-east of KwaZulu-Natal, a region characterised by red soil and bushland, Thanda is surrounded by rolling hills and open plains. More than 100 employees look after the guests staying in the private reserve as well as after the animals living here. But while great care is taken in terms of not interfering with the course of nature, some interventions are, unfortunately, unavoidable. Rhinos, for instance, will have their horns clipped at regular intervals in order to protect them from poachers. Their horn is a status symbol, a cornucopia, so to speak, signifying wealth and success in countries such as Vietnam and China; one kilogramme of the precious horn fetches up to USD 20,000 (and a multiple thereof for horn sourced from Asian rhinos). As a consequence of the lucrative business, national parks and private game reserves across Africa are confronted with major poaching issues, which is why it has become common practice anti-poaching units on patrol around the clock - on the ground - either on foot, on horseback or wheels - and from the air.
When it comes to Thanda, all of these things only came to fruition thanks to the owner’s change of heart. He had originally purchased the land with the idea to turn it into hunting territory, however, while working on plans and strategies for his newly acquired property he came to realise that chasing animals with a camera in hand was much more sustainable than hunting them with a rifle. Today, his foundation is not only pursuing extensive conservational efforts in Thanda but also reforesting coral reefs in the Indian Ocean.
Surfer’s Paradise
Since we are talking about the Indian Ocean: Its blue waters are lapping the shores not far from Thanda, the extensive, deserted beaches being a perfect destination for anyone wanting to switch off and restore their energies. The coast immediately north and south of Durban offers some of the world’s best surfing areas and with ideal conditions and warm temperatures year-round, KwaZulu-Natal’s provincial capital has become something like a hotspot for the national and international surfing scene.
It comes as no surprise then that the area around Durban is dubbed “Bay of Plenty”. With an immense choice of beach-, reef- and point breaks surfers of any level will find the conditions they are looking for, the rule of thumb being that said conditions are becoming more and more challenging the further north one goes. In the end though, the choice of beach is not only down to surfing abilities but also to personal preferences: The North Coast is a densely built-up area, with towns like Ballito or Umhlanga scoring with urban flair rather than natural beauty while the South Coast seems to be getting more and more pristine the further south one gets.
While June to August, winter in the southern hemisphere, is known to be the best season for surfers, summer has its benefits too, namely consistent wind and water temperatures around 25 degrees Celsius, rendering wetsuits all but unnecessary. The downside? Warm water not only attracts those keen on water sports but also sharks, which is why the beaches are protected by shark nets.
Apart from those nets, the communities along the coast - just like most of the lodges, parks and game reserves - are trying to interfere with nature as little as possible, taking every measure to make sure it can be enjoyed for generations to come in all its variety and glory.
